Chan Luu Doubles Down on Ready-to-wear With Spring 2027

Initially known as an accessories label, Chan Luu has been making a strong push into ready-to-wear and reviving the brand under the helm of chief executive officer and creative director Tessa Tran.

Founded in 1996 as a passion project by Vietnamese-born designer Chan Luu, the brand became known for fine jewelry, artisanal accessories and a small amount of ready-to-wear, a category that was paused before the pandemic. In 2014, Luu sold a majority stake to private investors. During this time, Luu’s niece, Tran, who joined the company as an intern and worked her way up, stayed on and eventually fully bought back the company in 2023.

“I was always interested in apparel, and I had this idea about creating a clothing line that was like an accessory because Chan Luu is an accessories brand,” Tran told WWD. “It first started off as a lot of skus in three sizes, because I wanted to treat each item as an accessory to be layered on. The first line that we launched three to four years ago included chiffon dresses that could fit sizes 0 to 12 or long, printed caftans. Now that it’s grown, we’ve gone into sizing but I still identify with the clothing as an accessory still.”

Tran explained that in ready-to-wear, the brand’s Techno Taffeta trousers, Pinch Waist Cardigan and lightweight outerwear, including the Vienna Coat, have been strong sales drivers, helping push the category from making up 15 percent of its e-commerce business last year to almost 50 percent today.

As shared exclusively with WWD, the brand is up 60 percent gross revenue year to date versus the same time last year. Wholesale is up 20 percent with partners including Moda Operandi, Fwrd, Shopbop and Nordstrom, and the brand will be launching on Net-a-porter in October.

Furthermore, the company has seen strong growth in e-commerce, up 64 percent year-over-year, with ready-to-wear reported at 400 percent growth. May was noted to be the biggest month for e-commerce in the brand’s history, said to be achieved without discounts or promotions.

Tran explained that while she is naturally designing for herself, she is also designing for the original founder and others. Each piece “passes through many hands,” starting in Tran’s Los Angeles studio and continuing through Chan Luu’s long-running partnerships with family-run workshops in Vietnam, Mongolia and India.

“We span decades apart and I look up to her so much. Even with the age gap, we’re still drawn to the same clothing. We have different objects of desire, and I think that’s important,” Tran said. “I’m not designing for one specific customer but a lifestyle of someone who wants to be comfortable and look and feel polished. I’m not making basics. The pieces are special and each one has a lot of hours, details and handwork. It attracts someone who has an eye to appreciate that,” she said of the company’s wide-spanning customer.”

Over the past year, the brand has presented on calendar during February’s and September’s New York Fashion Weeks. As seen via the brand’s latest presentation at Marcel on the Upper East Side, Tran is continuing to push the brand to the forefront of fashion with optimism, craftsmanship and ease.

Rather than approaching collections with trends or seasonal narratives, the creative director approaches each season as, “A core line that doesn’t have a revolving door.” Meaning, she is wanting to build upon and evolve styles that are working, including the bestselling Techno Taffeta trousers, which the brand launched last year. In spring, the material was utilized in new colors golden yellow and fuchsia pink and designs such as the hued zip-front straight-leg pants and girly knee-length pleated skirts.

More evolutions in spring came through lightweight outerwear, accented with custom fringed dori corded boas; button-down shirts paired with boho printed miniskirts and easy day-to-night wear spanning from a shimmering white tank with painterly skirt to breezy colorful dresses with paillette hems. The looks were topped with more fringes, feathers and crystal embroideries, as seen on playful handbags and novelty charm jewelry.

As Tran continues to push the brand forward, she said one of her biggest learnings has been to trust her gut and move intentionally and gradually. This spans from introducing new silhouettes to looking into retail in the future.

“It’s truly been a lot of hard work, blood, sweat and tears. I really just enjoy seeing the business grow, and then also having more face time with the product, touching and feeling the product, and also being able to be in India and designing in person,” Tran said. “I would never change it for the world. Where I’m able to go and what I’m able to see, including the artisans that I’ve been able to work with, it’s very life changing and heartwarming.”