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Moda Operandi Launches Dar Zéro


Dar Zéro Studio, a new luxury brand with bohemian, global traveler vibe, will launch on Moda Operandi Wednesday.

“I’ve long admired Moda Operandi for the way they champion designers with a distinct point of view and continually introduce their customer to new voices in fashion,” said Brigid Smith, the brand’s founder. “They have a unique discerning audience that values exceptional craftsmanship, originality, and is willing to invest in pieces with lasting relevance, so it felt like a very natural partnership,” Smith said.

The new brand, which is based in New York, offers effortless yet intentionally ornate styles that fuse decades of design from the 1970s to the 1990s. The line was designed by Smith, with a creative consultant.

Smith said that as a new brand, it was important to launch with a retailer that understands storytelling and gives designers the space to introduce an entire world, not just a collection. “The trunk show format also aligns with how we want to grow: thoughtfully, intentionally and without overproducing. We couldn’t be more excited to launch with them,” Smith said.

model in red fringed dress from Dar Zéro Studio

A style from Dar Zéro Studio.

Courtesy of Dar Zéro

Marc Rofsky, vice president, merchandising, ready-to-wear, Moda Operandi, said, “We discovered Dar Zéro through our amazing industry network and are thrilled to launch the brand exclusively, starting with their very first collection. Dar Zéro encompasses exactly what we see our clients responding to — a unique sense of escapism and storytelling through exquisite fabrications and intricate embroideries. The collection draws on surf influences, interpreted through a couture-inspired sensibility, and just the right dose of ’90s-inspired eclectic style.”

Dar Zéro’s collection is made in New York City. They are launching the brand direct-to-consumer alongside the exclusive partnership with Moda Operandi. “We wanted to keep distribution intentionally limited while introducing the brand and building a strong foundation,” Smith said.

The first collection spans ready-to-wear, accessories and swimwear. Ready-to-wear ranges from $690 to $4,590. Most dresses retail between the high $2,000s and high $3,000s. The most embellished pieces, including the gold lamé shorts and beaded surf shorts, sit at the top of the range at around $4,500. Silk scarves retail for $490, and swimwear goes from around $500 to $600 per set.

Asked about the aesthetic and who the collection is geared toward, Smith replied, “Dar Zéro is textile-driven at its core. The aesthetic is eclectic and bohemian, with a subtle nod to the effortless glamour of the 1970s, but it’s never costume. There’s an undercurrent of grit flowing through the collection that keeps it from ever feeling too precious. I like clothes that hold a contradiction: ornate but loose, glamorous but a little touch. Vintage is in the collection’s DNA, but it’s always viewed through a modern lens,” she said.

printed top and orange skirt look on model from Dar Zéro

A look from Dar Zéro.

Courtesy of Dar Zéro

Smith feels her customer is very similar to that of Moda Operandi. “She has no interest in blending in and is bored by the pervasive sameness. She dresses for herself and buys the way a collector does, slowly and instinctively because a piece resonates with her. She’s confident enough to wear clothing with a distinct point of view,” she said.

In response to what she anticipates will be bestsellers, Smith said, “I think people have naturally gravitated toward the psychedelic lurex smocked gown. It’s definitely been one of the standout pieces. I also expect both dusters to do really well because they capture the spirit of the collection.

“The beaded surf shorts are another favorite,” she said. “They really embody what Dar Zéro is about by bringing together exceptional craftsmanship with an unexpected sense of grit. The gold lamé embellished pieces are also special because they represent the highest level of handwork in the collection and showcase the craftsmanship that defines the brand.”

A campaign for the collection was shot by Bryan Liston and styled by Clare Byrne. The brand was launched with a cocktail party Tuesday night at People’s in New York, hosted by Karen Elson.



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