Luca Lin continued his investigation of classic tailoring in another collection in which he put to good use his love of pattern making.
Mainly working with deadstock fabrics, he tweaked the construction of wardrobe staples such as shirts and blazer jackets by enlarging silhouettes, twisting lapels, opening sleeves and backs, moving or overlapping pockets — all the while blowing up the volumes of mannish pants via multiple folds in a technique that is becoming a recurring trait of his work.
Subtler details commanded the same attention and further helped him to turn the ordinary into the unexpected. These ranged from the way loose shirts were tucked into raw cuts opening right under the belts of pants to the mismatched use of discarded buttons that made each piece unique.
The designer’s penchant for layering and his color sensibility favoring tonal hues contributed to the charm of his poised take on tailoring, which was complemented by collaborations with Saucony and Scarosso for footwear and Akoni for eyewear.
Lin’s desire to elevate the mundane also pushed him in a more experimental direction, which culminated in the final look featuring a sculptural qipao covered in bamboo. The piece was a nod to his Asian roots, but felt out of place in the relaxed lineup.
