Retailers Praised NYFW for Color, Elevated Outerwear, Lingerie Styles

Retailers gave New York Fashion Week positive reviews, complimenting the energy of the week and the confidence New York designers possessed.

From Heirlome’s debut show to Carolina Herrera‘s 45th anniversary, retailers said there was a lot of excitement this season. Bursts of color, elevated and sporty outerwear, fringe, transparency and lingerie and nightgown-inspired styles were among the key trends, said retailers. Smaller independent voices provided some of the best moments of the week.

Brands such as Khaite, Conner Ives, Lii, Kallmeyer, Carolina Herrera, Aisling Camps, Colleen Allen, Tory Burch, Ralph Lauren, Proenza Schouler, Maria McManus, Altuzarra, Diotima, Magda Butrym, Henry Zankov for DVR and Heirlome were among those cited as retailers’ favorite collections for the week.

Here’s what retailers had to say about NYFW‘s spring 2027 collections.

Chloe King, fashion director, women’s, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue

Mood: NYFW felt confident and celebratory. Carolina Herrera celebrated a milestone anniversary; Diane von Furstenberg opened the week with an exciting new chapter under artistic director Henry Zankov. Rachel Scott unveiled two strong collections — at Proenza Schouler and Diotima. Ulla Johnson shone under the cinematic views of the Brooklyn Bridge. Independent talents Colleen Allen, Maria McManus and Aisling Camps round out the cohort, representing the exciting future of American fashion.

Key trends: Dynamic and unexpectedly bold color combinations were seen at Tory Burch, DVF and Zankov. Calvin Klein, Brandon Maxwell and Eckhaus Latta pared back to sensual minimalism.
Attention to the hips and waist manifested in details like sashes, cummerbunds and peplums at Ralph Lauren, Thom Browne and Diotima. Romantic styles reminiscent of another time softened New York City’s edge in the form of floral embroidery, soft ruffles and sweeping skirts at Khaite, Altuzarra and Ralph Lauren.

Discoveries: CFDA finalists Emily Dawn Long, Aisling Camps and Lii rose to the occasion with clear, compelling collections.

Favorite collections: Proenza Schouler, Carolina Herrera, Conner Ives, Zankov, Altuzarra and Thom Browne.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman

Mood: The week had a palpable celebratory energy. On top of exciting additions and returns to the fashion calendar, there were significant milestones, openings and events. Carolina Herrera, Libertine and Bergdorf Goodman marked important milestones. Conner Ives and Sabyasachi came from afar to bring their unique worlds to New York. DVF and Monse staged comebacks. It was hard to reconcile that it had been 25 years since the shocking blue-sky morning of 9/11/01.

Key trends: Wardrobe building, blocks of black and white; layered dressing — minis over pants, jackets over slips over skirts; the romanticized body through the prevalence of undergarment dressing — bras, corsets, slips and nighties, often coming undone, déshabillé or combined with transparency; florals and delicate, soft colors; couture-inspired texture; fringe; crochet, and dimensional surfaces.

Key items: Jackets in all proportions; skirts, both pencil and full-circle; larger handbags, including the relaunch of Proenza Schouler’s iconic PS1; “naked” minimal shoes, with plenty of strappy sandals; square toe and softer-sided shoes.

Discoveries: From promising and emerging designers, Grace Ling’s tailored edginess, Lii’s unfolding geometric panel dressing; Colleen Allen’s distilled collection, with the purity of a high priestess in motion.

Favorite collections: Wes Gordon completely inhabits and propels the Carolina Herrera world; Thom Browne’s idiosyncratic and exquisite garden of delights and creations; the asymmetry, textures, unexpected colors, and cool yet dressed vibe of Rachel Scott for Proenza Schouler; Joseph Altuzarra’s freedom of gender expression; Sabyasachi’s refined interplay of East meets West; the artisan and soulful spirit of Heirlome; Henry Zankov for his mastery of color in his debut DVF collection; true American sportswear from Michael Kors, Brandon Maxwell, TWP and Simkhai; Emily Smith for Lafayette 148 and her beautiful, handcrafted collection, and Adam Lippes, a 360-degree designer.

April Hennig, president, Moda Operandi

Mood: New York has an amazing energy right now. There was such a strong sense of camaraderie in the fashion community this season, with designers showing up for each other and a real confidence around the next generation of talent. What feels particularly exciting is that these young designers have both cultural relevance and genuine commercial potential. It was a thrill to cheer on Rachel Scott’s second collection at Proenza Schouler, where she really sharpened her expression of the brand, and to see Wiederhoeft’s dramatic return to the runway showcasing his unique technical acumen. It was a proud moment to witness Heirlome’s first runway show and their continued commitment to traditional craft. Carolina Herrera’s 45th anniversary show punctuated the very “New York” feeling of the week and made the city proud.

Key trends: There was an explosion of primary colors — the cobalt blues at Calvin Klein, Simkhai, Ossou and Michael Kors; the poppy reds at Prabal Gurung, LII, and Zankov, and the marigold yellows at Carolina Herrera, Heirlome, and Proenza Schouler. Styling, overall, felt deliberately undone — not too precious or overly considered, and more in line with how women dress in real life. Khaite was a great example of this, with their unbuttoned tops and slouchy waist ties. East-meets-West textiles continue to be a source of inspiration for many designers — like the embroidered tapestries at Conner Ives and the jacquards at Ralph Lauren. Sporty-yet-elevated outerwear (TWP, LII and Rùadh all had great takes on this) is a trend we’re seeing continue from the fall season. Maximal fringe, cascading from hips at Rachel Comey and shoulders at Kallmeyer, offers a tactile take on embellishment. In terms of silhouette, it’s all about the waist: statement belts, cummerbunds, peplums are everywhere. In the accessories realm, the “silly little bag” is still top of mind, while skinny scarves and fringed shawls offer easy ways to update a look.

Discoveries: We are continuing to support emerging designers who showed their unique expressions this week, including Colleen Allen, Fforme, Sloan, Lii, Mel Usine, Ossou, Rùadh and Chan Luu.

Favorite collections: Conner Ives for its electric energy; Kallmeyer for its fresh, loose sense of polish; Khaite for revealing the brand’s softer, more romantic side; Ralph Lauren for its vintage-inspired American sportswear, and Altuzarra for its eclectic whimsy. Juju Vera and Lizzie Fortunato presented standout jewelry collections this season.

David Thielebeule, fashion director, Bloomingdale’s

Mood: New York felt very confident this season. There was a real sense of designers understanding who they are and, importantly, who they’re dressing. From the new romanticism at Khaite to Rachel Scott finding a looser, sexier vibe at Proenza Schouler, the clothes felt quite desirable. There was also great energy around the smaller independent voices. At Bloomingdale’s, it’s exciting to see that combination of established names and new talent thriving in our own backyard — it felt like a city genuinely in love with fashion again.

Key trends: What’s usually kept underneath was suddenly very much on display this week. At Altuzarra, lingerie and the mechanics of getting dressed became part of the clothes, while Khaite played with transparency and what you reveal or conceal. Lii brought that same thinking to utility, exposing function rather than disguising it. And at Heirlome, craft and handwork were brought very much to the surface, celebrated rather than hidden. It felt like a new honesty about how clothes are made, worn and experienced.

Discoveries: I always love the moment during fashion month when you see something that genuinely surprises you, and New York’s independent designers gave us some of the most interesting moments of the week. Jamie Haller has such a smart, slightly off-kilter way of looking at everyday clothes, and Maria McManus shares that instinct for building a wardrobe that feels elegant and considered but fun. I loved the sensuality and lightness of Aisling Camps, while Patricio Campillo’s exploration of Mexican craft and identity continues to feel incredibly personal and distinct. And Bad Binch TongTong definitely made me smile — a wonderful reminder that fashion can still deliver joy and imagination.

Favorite collections: Khaite, Proenza Schouler, Heirlome and Lii are the collections I keep thinking about.

Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer, Net-a-porter

Mood: The sun being out really does make a difference. Everyone seemed so positive and full of energy — our team included! We hosted an event on the Thursday, celebrating incredible women and it was such a great way to start the week.

Key trends: The main one I’ve noticed is the lingerie/nightgown trend that was featured all over the runway. We are seeing strong uses of color, too. Conner Ives did this particularly well — I liked his pairing of turquoise and red.

Discoveries: Yana Matkivski — I am very excited that we’ll be launching the brand on Net-a-porter in the coming weeks. There are a few others but I can’t say anything just yet.

Favorite collections: Conner Ives, Khaite, Altuzurra, Magda Butrym, Tory Burch, Maria McManus and Colleen Allen.

Brooke Bobb, vice president, fashion director, Nordstrom

Mood: The New York collections this season were all about dressing with intention and a sense of adventure, whether by way of a bold, voluminous silhouette, layering of prints, or unexpected textures.

Key trends: Playful proportions, sport-inspired touches, texture and embellishment.

Discoveries: SanderLak and PlayLoveWin are two new brands to watch. We also loved Emily Dawn Long’s new collection and are excited to continue to watch her evolve.

Favorite collections: Diotima, Eckhaus Latta, Henry Zankov’s debut for DVF, Tory Burch and Collina Strada.

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer, Mytheresa

Mood: Overall, New York felts like it entered a more romantic, feminine and expressive chapter (with) a strong focus on beautiful proportions, sensual fabrics and distinctive details, creating a season that feels both refreshing and highly desirable.

Trends: A decidedly romantic and feminine mood, with voluminous skirts, peplums, sheer fabrics and lingerie-inspired dressing emerging strongly across the collections. There is a renewed sense of femininity, expressed through softer silhouettes and more sensual details.

Must-have item: The chiffon peplum tops at Khaite bring a fresh and feminine take to the silhouette, and Khaite’s mini skater dresses, which feel particularly relevant for the season and offer an effortless way to embrace the new proportions.

Favorite collections: Khaite felt both decadent and fresh, with a new softness coming through in the silhouettes, exposed lingerie elements, fluid fabrics and exaggerated proportions, and an impressive presentation in a vast warehouse that felt almost endless, with carefully considered spotlighting creating a dramatic atmosphere while keeping the focus firmly on the clothes and their details. Ossou and Kallmeyer stood out for their distinct points of view and their ability to make femininity feel modern rather than overly polished.

Angela Pieretti, general merchandise manager, women’s, Mitchell Stores

Mood: Spring 2027 out of New York City is loud and joyous with a vibrant mix of color, print, texture, embellishments and refreshing playful styling. A busy week of celebration, with many milestones that highlight the resilience of our industry.

Key trends: High contrast all around. Color — grape, turquoise, grass green, cobalt, vermillion, marigold mixed with black and white. Soft pinks, mint and lavender continue from fall with touches of soft gray. Fringe crossed over from bags to belts, tops, dresses and blazers. Handbags from worn in and storied to perfectly lady top handles. Pointy toe pumps, punk belts, distressed denim, lace, brocade, corsets and scarves for your hip. Sporty details in polos, pinstripes and perforation. Extra miniskirts over pants and sheer skirts offer a refined layering trick. Traditional animal and floral prints remain a wardrobe neutral, butterflies join the mix.

Discoveries and favorites: An irony of renaissance undone at Ralph Lauren and Khaite that feel wearable and new, as opposed to vintage and pre-loved. Aisling Camps, master of deconstructed knitwear with beautiful intention. Every beach day should end with a handmade crochet of cotton and silk charmeuse. Conner Ives, who crossed the pond to be a part of NYFW, and Henry Zankov, who pulled off a debut and a new day at DVF in one week. Libertine’s 25th anniversary collection is pure perfection for the collectors. Wes Gordon’s celebration for Herrera’s 45th anniversary was a spectacularly warm tribute (with) a sea of yellow tulips, Lincoln Center, Carolina’s Warhol print, the embroidered New Yorker print from her first fashion show.