For the first time, Elisabetta Franchi showed at what has been her Milan headquarters for the past couple of years, a space where industrial architecture coexists with a contemporary, rigorous sense of glamour. Among other things, it was also the creative home to one of Milan’s most influential design studios, Dimorestudio. It is a place that preserves the memory of what came before while leaving room for what is yet to come. “When the collection took shape, I could only imagine it in this setting, which is essential, almost neutral, yet extremely sophisticated,” said the designer. “The woman I envisioned is a bold Elisabetta Franchi woman, but less predictable than in previous seasons, and essential in the way she expresses her sensuality.”
Franchi’s collection stemmed from a process of subtraction applied to the aesthetics of the night: sequins become oversized to create a liquid effect in movement; embroidery added flashes of glamour to balance the romanticism of lace. A recurring motif throughout was the second-skin effect of 90-denier tights, translated into dresses, tops, skirts and bustiers—a staple the designer could never do without in her own wardrobe. Shoulders were the focal point of the silhouettes, whether emphasized by the construction of jackets or left bare by necklines. References to sportswear and menswear codes helped create contrasts between different elements of the collection.
The palette ranged from black and nude to pale pink and camel, with red velvet as the only interruption. The prints, in micro jaguarino or eel-effect rendered in leather, PVC and jersey provided Franchi’s indispensable touch of boldness.
